A hazy or fuzzy image is the single most detrimental thing that can happen to a photograph. The autofocus function that is available on most modern DSLR cameras is undeniably a blessing. However, regardless of how useful autofocus can be, there are times when the camera gets it wrong and focuses on the incorrect subject. In some circumstances, autofocus is simply not adequate to meet the demands of the situation.
Photographers can face a significant obstacle when attempting to capture a moving subject in sharp focus. However, there is more to capturing moving subjects, particularly those that are moving at a high rate of speed, than simply focusing the camera. When attempting to concentrate on rapidly changing topics, there are a great number of other considerations that need to be given attention.
Any sniper, archer, or NFL quarterback worth their salt will tell you that it is significantly more difficult to hit a moving target than it is to hit a stationary target. Photographers are also familiar with this type of difficulty. It is impossible to overstate how important it is to have perfect focus; focus is one of the components that, along with composition, framing, and lighting, contribute to the creation of a good photograph.
There is, without a doubt, always some wiggle room to account for in artistic endeavours. However, if you are unable to meet a particular requirement, whether it be an immaterial or a purely arbitrary one, your image is simply not going to be received very favourably by the people who are supposed to be looking at it.
Incredible advancements have been made in autofocus systems recently. They can sharpen a subject in the blink of an eye, and sometimes even faster than that. If you've ever tried manually focusing a camera, you're probably aware of the fact that manual focusing mechanisms are typically more accurate than your eye in the majority of scenarios.
When photographing moving subjects, however, things can get a little more complicated, and you'll need to double check that the camera is set to the appropriate mode. If you need advice on your wedding photography, check out our photography packages and services at Wild Romantic Photography.
The wonderful thing about autofocus on today's cameras is that you can let it do all the work to get images that are razor-sharp instead of having to do any of the work yourself. You have an incredible amount of leeway to capture the scene exactly how you want it thanks to the camera's primary focus modes, which are referred to as Continuous, Single, Automatic, and Manual.
How to Get Sharper Photos: Essential Settings You Need to Know
Nailing your focus and taking sharper photos is a common problem among beginning photographers.
Some of the camera settings and tips for finding focus and getting sharper photos include:
- Focus mode (single, continuous, auto – AF-S, AF-C, and AF-A)
- Focus point mode (when to use single point, when to use zone/multi, when to use auto)
- Drive mode (single or continuous, when to use each)
- Using a large aperture, especially in low light
- Focus on an area with contrast
- Focus on the eyes of a person
When it comes to capturing sharp images with your camera, you can select one of a number of different settings. You need to select the one that is going to be the most effective for the different scenarios in which you will be taking photographs. Let's go through each one of them one at a time so you can learn which settings to use in different circumstances.
Tips and Camera Settings You Need to Know to Get Sharper Photos
Choose the Appropriate Focus Mode
Focus Mode is a setting that can be found on many different types of cameras, including DSLRs, mirrorless cameras, and even some compact cameras. This gives you the ability to choose how the camera focuses based on the subject, giving you the option of either locking in on the subject you want to focus on or tracking it as it moves.
There are generally four focus modes (some cameras have more):
- Single Shot Focus Mode: called One-Shot on Canon cameras, AF-S on Nikon and Sony, AFS on Pentax, and S-AF on Olympus.
- Continuous Focus Mode: called AI Servo on Canon, AF-C on Nikon and Sony, AFC on Pentax, and C-AF on Olympus.
- Auto Focus Mode: called AI Focus on Canon, AF-A on Nikon, and Sony, AFA on Pentax.
- Manual focus: pretty much the same on all cameras – M.
Note: It would be nice if all the camera manufacturers could get together and use the same names, right?!
All right, that's wonderful, but what does any of that actually mean? In an ideal world, you would be able to select Auto Focus Mode on your camera and allow it to do all of the work for you. But, if you've been using your DSLR for a while, you've probably moved away from most of the auto settings for a reason – sometimes, and often, the camera gets it wrong. If you've been using your DSLR for a while, you've probably moved away from most of the auto settings for a reason.
This is not an isolated incident. This setting (also known as AF-A or AI Focus) is supposed to offer the advantages of both manual and automatic focusing, but in practise, very few photographers ever use it because the camera almost always makes the incorrect selection. Therefore, it will attempt to track focus on a stationary object but will not lock focus for you, and it also has the potential to not pick up a moving object correctly.
Continuous Focusing Mode
Continuous Focus is what AI Servo AF (Canon) or AF-C (Nikon) stands for, and this mode is the one that is most helpful for keeping moving objects sharp within the viewfinder as you track the item. The camera will start to focus as soon as you begin to press down on the shutter release button. When you do this, the camera will go into action. In the Continuous focusing mode, the camera monitors the subject's movement and adjusts the focus settings as necessary to maintain a razor-sharp image of the subject.
When you use the C-AF mode, the camera will keep the lens focused for as long as you continue to press and hold the shutter button. If you have the camera set to continuous drive mode as well, then it will continue to focus the lens between each shot even though they are being taken in rapid succession. Because of this, it is an excellent choice for photographing sporting events because the camera can maintain the subject's sharpness even as it moves closer to or further from the camera – provided that the appropriate autofocus point is selected. Continuous focusing is ideal for use with moving subjects, in particular those that are moving in either direction relative to the camera.
When using this mode, depressing the shutter button about halfway will activate the autofocus, but it will not give you the option to lock the focus. Instead, the camera will continue to adjust the focus as the subject moves in order to maintain a sharp image. This is an excellent choice for anything that involves action, such as shooting sports, toddlers who move quickly, pets, and so on. Using this mode in conjunction with a zone or multiple-point focus area yields the best results.
Due to the fact that it constantly focuses and refocuses, this mode consumes a significant amount of battery power. Additionally, the autofocus technology may not accurately predict the direction in which a chaotic and fast-moving subject is going to move, which means that you may still end up with a blurry image. Choosing the right wedding photographer in Melbourne to capture every moment on your wedding day.
One-Shot Focusing Mode
Following that, we have One-Shot AF (Canon) or AF-S (Nikon), which denotes the capability of single-focusing.
In this mode, when you focus the camera on a subject by halfway depressing the shutter release button, the camera only focuses on the subject once; there is no continuous adjustment. This mode helps conserve battery life and is best utilised for static or unchanging content.
When trying to take a picture of something whose position is constantly shifting, however, this mode is not the best choice. Therefore, if you aren't attempting to get a quick shot of a deer in the early morning or hoping to immortalise Tony Romo getting tackled, then switching to One Shot mode is probably your best bet.
You should be aware that the majority of cameras have two modes for the autofocus, and many have three. Single-Autofocus, also known as S-AF, is the model that sees the most usage. When you press the shutter release halfway in this mode, the camera will focus the lens for you automatically. If you continue to hold your finger on the shutter button after it has already achieved focus, it will not make any further adjustments to the focus even if the subject moves while you have your finger on the button. If you want the lens to be refocused, you have to take your finger off the shutter release and then press it again. The camera will do this for you.
The Single-AF mode is an excellent choice for when you want to focus and recompose an image as well as when photographing stationary subjects. However, it is not a good choice for photographing sports and other types of action; in these situations, Continuous-Autofocus, also known as C-AF, is a better option. This mode should be utilised for focusing on subjects that are not moving, such as still subjects or objects.
The camera will engage autofocus and do a focus lock when you press the shutter button halfway down.
- Use Single Focus MODE for getting sharp focus on non-moving or stationary subjects like this portrait of a Cuban woman smoking a cigar
- Use Single Focus Mode for non-moving or static issues, like posed portraits.
You may hear a beep when Focus Lock is achieved (you can usually disable that if it annoys you as much as it does me, look in your camera menu under sounds). This mode is also best combined with using a single focus point.
Automatic Autofocus Mode
The final autofocus mode is Automatic Autofocus, which is denoted by the letters AF-A (for Nikon) or AI Focus AF (for Canon).
This is a feature that was added not too long ago, but it has already proven to be of great assistance. When in this mode, the camera's focusing computer will automatically switch between AF-C and AF-S (on Nikon cameras) or One-Shot AF and AI Servo AF (on Canon cameras), depending on the circumstances. This is the autofocus mode that is selected by default on cameras that have this functionality.
Auto-AF or A-AF is the name given to a third automatic focusing option that is available on many cameras. If you choose to use this mode, the camera will attempt to determine whether the subject is moving or not, and it will then switch between Single-AF and Continuous-AF mode depending on its conclusion. It can be useful, but in most cases, you should consider your subject and decide whether to shoot in S-AF or C-AF mode on your own. In this way, you will have a much higher chance of the camera responding in the way you expect it to.
This environment is supposed to combine the advantages of both the urban and rural settings. The phrase "supposed to be!" is the most important part of that sentence. In this mode, the camera will choose the focus mode for you, either Single or Continuous, depending on what it determines the subject to be based on its own analysis. The issue is that, just like with any other auto setting, there is always a possibility that the camera will get it wrong, which will result in a blurry photograph being taken.
Unluckily, it's usually the worst of both worlds, and a significant portion of the time, a greater number of the shots are blurry than they are in sharp focus. Therefore, the best choice for you would be to pick one of the two modes that were presented earlier. You can do a custom setting for each of them, or some cameras, like Canons, have a quick switch button that allows you to toggle back and forth between the two modes. Once more, I recommend consulting the user manual of your camera to find out what features it possesses.
Note: If you don't have the printed user manual or can't seem to find it, you can try doing a search on Google for the name of your camera, the model number, and the phrase "user manual." You should be able to find a copy of the PDF in the results. You should save it to your mobile device by downloading it, then keeping it there so you can consult it whenever you need to. It also has a search function, which makes it much simpler to locate specific elements, such as the settings for personalisation.
You must keep in mind that photography is capable of being an art, and that in order to create something beautiful, you must follow what you see in your mind's eye. Because you never know what is going to happen next or what is going to catch your eye, it is helpful to have the camera make quick adjustments to the focus. This function will keep the subject in focus even if you switch subjects or if the subject moves.
We have the best wedding photographer in Yarra Valley to capture your beautiful moments on your wedding day.
Manual Focusing Mode
Having to manually focus the camera is probably the most challenging obstacle that stands between good photography and great photography.
The use of the lens barrel's distance measurements and even measuring the distance from the lens to the subject with a tape measure is required to achieve perfect focus; this is the method that professional photographers employ when shooting products. The same is true for photographers of fine art who work with medium format cameras. This will provide you with the most precise focal point possible. What happens if you are unable to bring the measuring tape up to the subject?
You must rely on your own intuitive sense of sharpness and be aware of the critical focus zone available to you at the aperture setting that was chosen.
There is a diopter adjustment on most digital single-lens reflex cameras (it's right next to the viewfinder), which allows you to make minute adjustments to the focusing capacity based on any irregularities in your eyesight. You can make these adjustments based on how well you can see through the viewfinder. You can also use the preview button for the depth of field to assist you in determining focus, although this is a more advanced method.
When concentrating on a non-traditional subject, you absolutely need to use manual focus. For instance, a problem that is in the background when the foreground is active and taking up the majority of the focus. It should go without saying that Manual Focus and Manual Shooting Mode are NOT the same thing, but just to be clear: they are NOT the same thing! Manual Focus is NOT the same as Manual Shooting Mode, and the two do not necessarily need to be used together.
The Manual Shooting Mode and the Manual Focus are two terms that are frequently confused with one another. If you are shooting in Manual Mode for exposure, you are NOT required to use Manual Focus. You CAN do that, but doing so is neither required nor necessary in any way. You will need to physically turn the focus ring on your lens in order to get the camera to focus when using this mode.
This mode comes in handy when you want to do things like macro photography or some night photography, as well as when you want to first use autofocus and then lock it (you can do so by switching to Manual Focus to disengage AF for doing night photography, for example).
Using Manual Mode could be difficult for you, especially when the subject of your photograph is moving. You shouldn't be afraid to make use of the sophisticated focusing system that comes with your camera. You are not engaging in dishonest behaviour by doing that!
Imagine that your camera has a Live View mode, or that you are using a camera with an electronic viewfinder (like a modern mirrorless camera) that also has focus assist or focus peaking. In such a scenario, the Manual Focus mode is significantly more straightforward and usable. If you're using a DSLR, however, getting the focus right can be difficult (especially for "mature" eyes like mine), so select one of the other autofocus modes for some assistance.
The most effective course of action in this scenario is to select the Focus Mode appropriate to the subject being photographed. Choose option number one, single shot, from the list above if the subject in question is not moving (or is shifting laterally but not altering its distance from the camera) (AF-S, One-Shot).
You will then have an excellent clean focus lock and a sharp image as a result of doing that.
Option 2 or the Continuous Focus Mode (also known as Servo or AF-C) is your best bet if the subject of your photograph is moving either towards you or away from you, or rapidly in a variety of directions, like a child. Check the user manual for your camera if you have one of a different brand to learn about the different focus modes and what they are called. However, it is highly likely that they will be comparable to the examples given previously.
Planning your dream wedding and don’t want to miss out on the special moments on your big day? Worry no more, Wild Romantic Photography has you covered.
Choose the Appropriate Focus Point Setting
It is likely that you will see a number of dots or squares when you look through the viewfinder of your camera. When you press the shutter button halfway down, one or more of those dots will light up or become highlighted depending on how many times you press the button.
Those are your focus points, and which one (or ones) light up indicates exactly where the camera will attempt to focus on the subject. There are three options that are considered to be standard when it comes to configuring your camera's focus points. Your camera may even have additional options, but you already know what I'm going to say next: read the manual.
Single Focus Point
You choose just one point, and the camera will only concentrate its attention on that one particular location.
This is the most appropriate option for subjects that are not moving. You have a greater degree of control over the location to which the focus is set. When shooting with a large aperture and a very shallow depth of field, this is a very important consideration.
Take note of the point that is highlighted in red. The camera will make an effort to focus on that particular area. When you look through the viewfinder of your camera, you should see something very similar to this.
The point in the middle is referred to as a cross-type focus point (that means the camera looks for contrast both horizontally and vertically). In contrast, the majority or even all of the other points in many cameras can only detect the difference along one axis (vertically).
In difficult circumstances, if you also choose the centre point, it will typically give you a quicker and more accurate focus. Consequently, using the centre point will assist your camera in focusing even if you are taking pictures in low light or a dark room.
Check the user manual for your camera once more to see what kinds of points are available outside of the centre of the frame. However, keep in mind that you can always use the one in the middle as a failsafe in the event that you are unsure.
Looking for a Mornington Peninsula wedding photographer? Look no further! Wild Romantic Photography has you covered.
Zone or Multi-Focus Points
In this mode, the camera determines whether to focus on a predetermined cluster of focus points or on a larger zone (a portion of the scene) in order to do so.
Because it is more difficult to focus on a single point on a moving target, this is the method that should be used when dealing with moving subjects. Have you ever attempted to photograph a child or a bird while it was in flight using a single point of focus? At best, it's annoying, and at worst, you see very few, if any, positive results from your efforts. Instead of using a single point, try using a zone or multiple points, and the camera will search within those areas for the subject.
The results you get will change depending on which camera you use, and some cameras are better at this than others. Therefore, if you want to take pictures of sports or moving subjects (such as children, animals, or other people), you should look for a camera that has received positive feedback in the category of focus (fast focus, number of points, tracking focus).
Auto Focus Point Selection
When you select this option, the camera decides for you what point in the scene to focus on and brings it into sharp focus.
Even though cameras are becoming more sophisticated, with features such as Face Detection, it is common for the object that is physically closest to the camera to end up having the most crisp and clear image. However, if that is not what you intended – for example, if you wanted the pretty flower behind the fence to be in focus while the wall in front of it was blurry – the camera will not do what you want it to.
My camera is set to use Single Point Focus the vast majority of the time. This should make it easier for you to choose an option that is appropriate for whatever it is that you are photographing.
Auto AF Point selection systems are easily thrown off by chaotic backgrounds and subjects that are constantly moving. It is strongly recommended that you set the active AF point on your own. There is typically an option that gives you the ability to select a single point for the camera to focus on. This may be referred to as the Single AF-point or, ironically, the Multi AF Point (because you can choose from multiple topics).
When you use this option, the focus point will be placed precisely where you want it to be; however, in order for it to work, you need to be able to hold the camera steady. As a result, the active energy is over the subject in the viewfinder, which is something that is frequently easier said than done when you are photographing a sporting event.
When you're trying to keep the active area over the subject, a Zone AF (or similar) model gives you a little bit of room for error, which makes it an excellent choice for shooting sports. In spite of this, it is more targeted than the Auto AF-Point mode, which uses all of the points that are available.
If you’d like to work with professional photographers for your wedding, book with us at Wild Romantic Photography.
In the Zone AF mode, just as with the Single AF Point mode, you need to choose the Zone that covers the subject, and then you need to make sure that area stays over the problem even as the subject moves. As long as you do that and make sure the camera is set to the C-AF mode, you should be able to capture sharp images.